How to Solid Axle Swap (SAS) a 2001–2010 Chevy 2500 Using a Ford SuperDuty Dana 60
Part 1: Removing the IFS and Prepping the Frame for SAS
Project SilverDuty: 2001-2010 Chevy 2500 SAS Build Start
The factory IFS (independent front suspension) in 2001–2010 Chevy/GMC 2500/3500 GMT800 trucks is comfortable on the street but limited off-road. Weak steering, limited travel, failing CVs, sloppy ball joints and poor durability make it a common candidate for replacement.
This is part 1 of my Chevy 2500 solid axle swap build series:
The most common GMT800 solid axle swap for a 2001–2010 Chevy 2500 uses a 2005–2017 Ford SuperDuty Dana 60, replacing the factory IFS with a much stronger straight axle and coil suspension.
Perfect candidate for the SilverDuty Project build!
This swap gives you:
True heavy-duty strength – the Ford axle is stronger in every way
Huge aftermarket support – gears, axles, brakes, trusses and more!
Easy parts availability – huge span of years means tons of available parts from suppliers and wreckers
Much better off-road performance
This article covers Part 1 of the full SAS series:
IFS removal, teardown, and frame preparation.
In this guide:
- Truck setup and teardown
- Removing skid plates and draining the diff
- Disconnecting brake lines and ABS
- Removing driveshaft, sway bar, shocks and steering
- Removing torsion bars
- Dropping the complete IFS assembly
- Cutting factory brackets
- Cleaning and prepping the frame rails
Quick Specs:
- Truck: 2001-2010 Chevy/GMC 2500/3500 GMT800 platform (IFS)
- Axle: 2005-2017 SuperDuty Dana 60
- This post covers: designing, cutting, and welding SAS kit brackets
- Tools: basic hand tools, cutting, grinding, and welding
- Skill level: experienced DIY; welding and cutting required
Estimated Time:
- 5-7 hours to remove all IFS components
- 2-3 hours to cut and grind frame
Total time: 7-10 hours (add 2-4 hours if the truck is very rusty)
Photos throughout the guide are taken directly from my build video. This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
If you want to see the IFS bracket removal and frame clean up, watch the Part 1 build video below.
Watch the full video above, then continue below for written notes, design details, and links to the parts used in this Chevy 2500 SAS build.
Tools Used in This Solid Axle Swap:
- Impact Socket Set
- Large 2.5″ Crescent Wrench
- 24″ Breaker Bar
- Vacuum Cap Kit (for brake line caps)
- Irwin Bolt Extractor Kit
- Torsion Bar Unloading Removal Tool
- M18 Work Light
- ArcCaptain Cut55 Plasma Cutter
- 4.5″ Cutoff Discs for grinder
- Clean and Prep Frame – 4.5″ Flapper Discs
- Shop My Recommended Gear
Truck Setup and Initial Teardown
Starting point – Chevy 2500 on the hoist ready for teardown.
Lift the truck safely using a hoist or set up on jack stands. Remove the front wheels and disconnect the battery.
Spray every suspension and steering bolt with penetrating oil, this will allow the oil to soak in and will save time in later steps.
Remove Skid Plates and Drain the Front Differential
Draining the factory front differential.
Remove the front skid plates – 15mm wrench, then drain the differential, 13mm wrench
Removal of 4wd Actuator with large crescent wrench.
Remove the 4WD actuator from the front diff, it requires a 1 13/16″ wrench, or a big crescent wrench.
Keep the 4WD actuator, you may repurpose it to keep the dash happy later.
Fender Liners, Brake Lines, and ABS/ Wheel Speed Sensor Wiring
Fender liner removed to access speed sensors and brake lines.
Remove both inner fender liners, plastic snaps will require flat head screwdriver or pliers.
Disconnect and cap:
Brake lines with 5/16″ vacuum cap
- Do not let all the fluid out of the lines or you may have problems with your abs system later.
Capping brake lines after removal of soft lines
ABS/Wheel Speed Sensor wiring gets removed, plastic snaps on the a-arm and shock tower.
Driveshaft, Sway Bar, Shocks, and Steering
Removing the front driveshaft and taping the u-joint caps before dropping the diff.
Unbolt and remove:
Front driveshaft – 11mm. Tape joint so caps don’t fall off
Front sway bar – external torx socket
Shocks – 21mm bottom bolt, 19mm top bolt
Steering components (center link/tie rod assembly) – 21mm and pickle fork for ball joints
Keeping the steering assembly intact helps the whole IFS drop as a single unit.
Remove Torsion Bars
Relieving torsion bar tension.
Use a torsion bar tool to safely relieve the tension by following the tool instructions. Then unbolt and remove the adjustment bolt (18mm) and saddle and release the torsion bar tool. At that point you’ll need a large hammer and a punch to drive the torsion bar forward until the anchor drops off, then you drive the torsion bar from the other end, back towards the rear of the truck to fully remove the bar.
Most bars on rusty trucks will be seized and may require heat or cutting. I had to cut the torsion bars on my truck, which is ok as they’re not needed for the SAS. Make sure to release the tension before cutting!
Unbolt and Drop the Entire IFS Assembly
The factory IFS assembly dropped as one unit.
- Unbolt A-Arms, starting from top, working your way down. Top A-Arm bolts are 21mm wrenches. Lower A-Arm bolts are a 22mm and an 18mm.
- Front differential is held in with 4 – 21mm bolts. One of the bolts will be blocked by the drivers side CV shaft.
- Remove CV shaft 6 bolts with 15mm wrench.
- Push CV out of way to remove final differential mount bolt. No need to remove rotor end of CV shaft.
- Remove final bolt holding differential to frame
- Use prybar to pry a-arms out of their mounts.
Lower the assembly to the ground.
Rotate front differential out of mounts. Upper bolt may hit hoses, they can be pried out of the way a bit to remove differential upper mount bolt.
Cutting Off Factory Brackets
Chevy 2500 Frame before removal of brackets.
IFS Brackets cut off frame ready for grinding
You must remove:
- Upper A-arm mounts
- Lower A-arm mounts
- Factory bump stop mounts
- Lower crossmember
- Shock brackets
Additional removal notes:
- Unbolt A-arm mount hardware – 21mm bolts
- Remove front crossmember – four 18mm bolts
Use a plasma cutter or cutoff wheels. Expect a lot of undercoating smoke. Make sure to point your plasma away from important components or put a piece of scrap steel of shielding so you don’t melt things while cutting off the brackets. I picked up an ArcCaptain CUT55 Plasma Cutter for a great deal just for this project and saved myself a ton of time over cutting with an angle grinder!
Clean and Prep the Frame Rails
Frame cleaned up and ready for next step, welding!
Grind the frame rails completely clean with a wire wheel and a 40grit flapper disc on your grinder:
Remove all factory welds
Remove undercoating and rust
Smooth out high spots
Expose clean, shiny steel everywhere your brackets will mount
Your frame plates, coil buckets, and panhard / track bar brackets depend on proper preparation.
Continue to Part 2: Designing and Installing the SAS Kit
In Part 2, we design a custom SAS Kit
Designing frame plates
Locating & welding coil buckets
Panhard / Track bar bracket fabrication
Transmission crossmember design and install
Setting caster, pinion angle, and axle placement
- Radius Arm building
Getting the 2007 Ford SuperDuty Dana 60 hung under the truck
If you’re building your own GMT800 Dana 60 swap, make sure to read Part 2, watch the Part 1 video, and check out the complete Chevy SAS kit here.
Safety Disclaimer
Performing a solid axle swap involves cutting, grinding, welding, and supporting heavy loads. Only attempt this work if you are confident in your mechanical and fabrication skills. Always use proper jack stands, wear eye/ear protection, keep fire suppression nearby, and disconnect your battery before cutting or welding.
You are responsible for your own safety and the safety of anyone around you.
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