Ford Super Duty Dana 60 Ball Joint Replacement
If the steering knuckles on your 2005-2017 Ford Super Duty Dana 60 are getting stiff, loose, or difficult to turn, there is a good chance the ball joints are worn or seized.
The Dana 60 in this project had both problems. One ball joint had a huge amount of play while another was seized badly enough that the knuckle barely wanted to turn.
In this guide, I’ll go through a full Super Duty Dana 60 ball joint replacement, removing the brakes, unit bearings, axle shafts and steering knuckles, pressing out the old ball joints, installing the replacements, and putting the axle back together.
This axle is being used in my Chevy 2500 solid axle swap, but the ball joint procedure applies to the 2005-2017 Ford Super Duty Dana 60 axle itself.
In This Guide:
- Removing the Brakes and Unit Bearing
- Removing the Dana 60 Axle Shafts
- Removing the Steering Knuckle
- Removing the Old Ball Joints
- Installing the New Ball Joints
- Installing the C-Clip, Dust Boot and Grease Fitting
- Caster and Camber Adjustment Sleeves
- Reinstalling the Axle Shaft and Outer Seal
- Reassembling the Unit Bearing and Brakes
Quick Specs:
- Axle: 2005-2017 Ford Super Duty Dana 60
- Ball joints replaced: Upper and lower, both sides
- Upper ball joint torque used in this video: 70 ft-lb
- Lower ball joint torque used in this video: 150 ft-lb
- Ball joint press: Orion Motor Tech 21-piece kit
- Difficulty: Intermediate mechanical repair
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For the complete job from teardown through the final test drive, watch the video below.
Tools and Parts Used
- Replacement upper and lower ball joints
- Orion Motor Tech 21-Piece Ball Joint Press Kit
- Large breaker bar
- Torque wrench
- Hammer / mini sledge
- Snap-ring pliers
- Needle-nose pliers
- Drill and small drill bits for seized cotter pins
- Wire wheel
- Permatex Ultra Copper Anti-Seize
- Grease
- Metric and SAE sockets
Replacing the upper and lower ball joints on a 2005-2017 Super Duty Dana 60.
Why I Needed to Replace the Dana 60 Ball Joints
The easiest indication that something was wrong with this axle was that the steering knuckle simply did not want to turn.
With the axle stripped down, it became pretty obvious why. The lower ball joint on one knuckle had a huge amount of play, while the other joint was almost completely seized.
Ball joints are a common wear item on these Super Duty axles, especially after years of use, rust and off-road abuse.
There are upgraded replacement ball joints and ball joint eliminators available for serious off-road builds, but for this project I installed standard replacement ball joints.
Removing the Brakes and Unit Bearing
The brakes and unit bearing need to come off before the axle shaft and steering knuckle can be removed.
The first step is stripping everything off the outside of the knuckle.
On this axle, that meant removing:
- Brake hose banjo bolt – 14mm
- Brake caliper bolts – 16mm
- Caliper bracket bolts – 21mm
- Brake rotor
- ABS sensor – 6mm allen
- Locking hub – T27 Torx
- Axle-shaft snap ring inside the hub
- Four unit-bearing mounting bolts – 21mm
- Unit bearing
My unit bearings had already been removed as part of converting the Ford 8×170 wheel pattern to 8×6.5.
If you are doing that conversion as well, I have a complete Super Duty Dana 60 8×170 to 8×6.5 conversion guide here.
You can also get the Dana 60 8×170 to 8×6.5 drill template and drill bit here.
Removing the Dana 60 Axle Shafts
Once the unit bearing is out, the axle shaft can be removed from the housing.
The Super Duty axle uses a large outer seal for the factory vacuum hub system, which can make the axle shaft surprisingly tight to remove.
I worked carefully behind the seal until I had enough room to gently pry the shaft outward.
Removing the Super Duty axle seal by prying on rear side of axle.
If you are retaining the factory vacuum hub system, these seals are important. In my application I am not using the vacuum system, so their main job is keeping dirt and contamination away from the unit bearing and axle tube.
With both axle shafts removed, you have clear access to the steering knuckles and ball joints.
Removing the Steering Knuckle
The upper ball joint uses a castle nut and cotter pin.
On a clean axle, removing the cotter pin is straightforward. On this axle it had essentially rusted itself into the ball joint.
I tried working it loose first, but after breaking the exposed ends off I drilled enough of the remaining cotter pin away to allow the nut to turn.
The upper nut on this axle was 28mm. A 1-1/8″ socket is very close and worked for me.
The lower nut was 33mm, with 1-5/16″ being a close SAE equivalent.
One useful trick here: do not completely remove the upper ball joint nut before separating the knuckle.
Leave it threaded on several turns, then strike the end of the ball joint to break the taper loose. The nut prevents the heavy steering knuckle from suddenly falling onto the floor — or your feet — when it releases.
Leave the ball joint nut partially installed while breaking the taper loose so the knuckle cannot fall.
Once both tapers are released, remove the nuts completely and lift the steering knuckle off the axle.
Removing the Old Dana 60 Ball Joints
With the knuckle on the bench, start by removing the large retaining C-clip from the lower ball joint.
I also gave the knuckle and ball joints a quick cleaning with a wire wheel. These were extremely rusty, and getting some of the scale and dirt out of the way makes the rest of the job easier.
There are several ways to get the old ball joints out:
- Hammer and drift
- Ball joint press
- Shop press
I used a combination of a hammer and ball joint press.
I found the lower ball joint easy enough to drive out using a correctly sized socket and a hammer.
Once the lower is removed, there is enough room through the opening to properly position the ball joint press on the upper.
Removing the upper Dana 60 ball joint using a ball joint press.
The press I used is an Orion Motor Tech 21-piece ball joint press kit.
These are large ball joints, so even with a good press kit there may not be one perfect combination of cups that handles the entire operation. I had to press the joint partway, rearrange the cups and continue pressing until it was completely removed.
It takes some time, but the press is much easier than trying to beat a heavily seized upper ball joint out of the knuckle.
Installing the New Super Duty Dana 60 Ball Joints
New upper and lower ball joints ready to be pressed into the steering knuckle.
I installed inexpensive Carquest replacement ball joints that I found on clearance through RockAuto.
One feature I liked on these replacements was the Allen-key provision in the end of the stud. If the stud wants to spin while installing or removing the nut, an Allen key can hold it in place instead of grabbing the stud with vice grips.
Before pressing the replacements in, I applied a small amount of anti-seize around the outside of the ball joint.
As with removal, I started with the lower ball joint so there was still room to position the press correctly.
When pressing a ball joint into the knuckle, apply the force to the outside edge of the ball joint housing — not the stud itself.
Pressing directly on the stud can damage the new joint before it ever makes it onto the axle.
The upper and lower joints are different sizes, so there is no confusion about which one belongs in each position.
C-Clip, Dust Boot and Grease Fitting
Once the new ball joints are fully seated, there are a few small pieces to finish before reinstalling the knuckle.
The lower gets its retaining C-clip, while the upper gets its dust boot and grease fitting.
The grease fitting is worth paying attention to if you are running larger aftermarket axle U-joints.
With the stock 1480 U-joints used in this axle, I had enough clearance to leave the grease fitting installed.
With some 1550 or aftermarket U-joints, the U-joint may contact the fitting. In that situation, you can install the fitting, grease the ball joint, remove it and install a plug.
I pointed the grease fittings rearward. That makes them easier to access while also helping prevent them from being packed with dirt.
Dana 60 Caster and Camber Adjustment Sleeves
The adjustment sleeve at the upper ball joint controls caster and camber.
Before reinstalling the knuckle, take a look at the adjustment sleeve around the upper ball joint.
These sleeves are used to adjust caster and camber.
The sleeves removed from this axle were marked for 0 degrees of camber and +0.4 degrees of caster.
Different adjustment sleeves are available if you need to change the alignment without physically moving suspension mounts.
I cleaned the sleeves and applied anti-seize before reinstalling them so they do not seize into the axle housing.
Reinstalling and Torquing the Steering Knuckle
With the adjustment sleeve back in place, install the steering knuckle onto the new upper and lower ball joints.
The replacement ball joints I used both happened to use 1-1/4″ nuts.
For these ball joints, I torqued:
- Upper ball joint: 70 ft-lb
- Lower ball joint: 150 ft-lb
After torquing the upper nut, align the castle nut with the cotter-pin hole and install the new cotter pin.
Always confirm the torque specifications supplied with the exact ball joints you are installing.
Reinstalling the Dana 60 Axle Shaft and Outer Seal
The axle shaft and large outer seal need to go back into the axle together.
If you simply drive against the end of the axle shaft, the shaft can move inward while leaving the seal behind.
Ford has a dedicated installation tool for this, and aftermarket tools are also available.
Naturally, I made one instead.
A simple homemade tool allows the axle shaft and outer seal to be driven into position together.
The tool contacts both the outside of the seal and the end of the axle shaft at the same time.
Mine was made from:
- 1/4″ steel ring
- 2-1/2″ inner diameter
- 5″ outer diameter
- Piece of 3″ driveshaft tubing
- 3″ cap
- Approximately 3-1/8″ overall length
That allowed me to drive the axle shaft completely into place while seating the outer seal at the same time.
Reassembling the Unit Bearing and Brakes
With the axle shaft and seal installed, the rest of the axle can go back together.
Reinstall the unit bearing, locking hub, ABS sensor, rotor, caliper bracket and brake caliper.
Do not forget the large snap ring on the end of the axle shaft inside the hub.
In my case, the unit bearings had already been converted to 8×6.5 and the rotor holes enlarged to 13/16″ as part of that conversion.
If you are working through the same Super Duty Dana 60 build, see my complete 8×170 to 8×6.5 conversion article and Dana 60 drill template.
Super Duty Dana 60 Ball Joint Replacement Complete
The Dana 60 reassembled with new upper and lower ball joints.
With both sides finished, I reassembled the axle and took the truck for a test drive.
Everything worked as it should, and the steering knuckles now move properly with the seized and worn ball joints replaced.
If you have a 2005-2017 Super Duty Dana 60 with excessive steering play or a knuckle that is becoming difficult to turn, replacing the upper and lower ball joints is a very manageable job with a ball joint press and a decent selection of large sockets.
More Super Duty Dana 60 Tech and Parts
This Dana 60 is part of my Chevy 2500 Solid Axle Swap – Project SilverDuty.
I have also covered several other jobs involved in prepping the Super Duty axle:
- Convert a Super Duty Dana 60 From 8×170 to 8×6.5
- How to Weld a Super Duty Dana 60 Differential
- Super Duty Dana 60 8×170 to 8×6.5 Drill Template
- Super Duty Dana 60 Differential Weld Plates
- Ford Super Duty Parts and Fabrication Products
- Chevy 2500 Solid Axle Swap Kits and Components
You can also watch the complete Project SilverDuty Chevy SAS video series here.
Safety Disclaimer
Ball joint replacement requires lifting and supporting a vehicle, removing heavy steering and brake components, using high-force presses, and working with suspension and steering components that directly affect vehicle safety.
Always support the vehicle securely with properly rated equipment, wear appropriate eye protection, and keep hands and body parts clear of loaded presses and components under tension.
Verify all torque specifications for the exact axle and replacement parts you are using, and inspect the steering, brakes and suspension before driving the vehicle.
You are responsible for your own safety, the condition of your vehicle, and the safety of anyone around you.
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